Drama. Gesture.  Rapture.  Foundation. These are the building blocks of inspiration – not necessarily in that order but definitely capturing the passions Michel and I share.  As craftspeople we like to take something with a simple gesture create a confectionary morsel so rapturous it imbues the drama of chocolate – that is our foundation.

While traveling we are rejuvenated by the stimuli we surround ourselves, we both tend toward visual nuances, it seeps into our pores and etches itself into our minds eye.

I’d like to share Michael and my love for art and architecture in a pictorial of inspiration … from our eyes to yours here are 28 images that you may find influence products or designs yet to come!

Popularity: 1% [?]

We San Franciscans are a charmed lot. We have a longer season for fresh produce & fruits than other parts of the country. We have superior bread makers to accompany sublime local cheeses. We have vast choices of coffee roasters to keep us jumping for more java. Micro brewers to keep going from pub crawl to pub crawl for miles, well, at least 7 by 7 miles. Spirit distillers are a within arm reach to bring us warm cheers on cold foggy evenings. Mostly humbly we make wines that even fooled the French in blind tastings … indeed we are a charmed lot.

Michael and I venerate being in company of talented entrepreneurs and the healthiest appetites in all Bay Area, to have the fortitude to consume the best foods available at our finger tips and still leave room for chocolates;  to be accompanied by winning wines makes it a slice of heaven!

Over the years we’ve had the great honor of incredible partnerships – Verite, Duckhorn, Sterling, Lambert Bridge, Willem Selyem, Schramsberg, J Winery, Hartford, Sutton Cellars, Ferry Plaza Wine Merchant, JC Cellars the list goes on and continues to do so this holiday season.

Chocolate is very much like wine – capturing nuances in the soil and other influences in its surroundings. Fermentation draws sapidity, timing in roasting as with the right moment of the crush reveal layers otherwise unnoticed. Personality, style and mien vary on unique inclination – following through from creation to creativity of the wrap (or bottle) it’s held within. We add idiosyncrasy to each strata just as in wines, we at Recchiuti have a choice for a multitude of preferences. Each calling to a particular palette be it truffles, a baked treat or bars with inclusions we seek partnerships that share the same principles.

Like the partnering wines our truffles capture the very essence, layers of flavor and complexity of the wines that make it the perfect pairing. Engage in a tasting with the Recchiuti Red Wine Pairing box or cavort in a selection of your own.  Like our varied alternatives of food here in the Bay Area the sky’s the limit – we have an ample offering of confections with a generous selection of wine partners.

This season we’ve partnered with Jaqk Wine Cellar, Cameron Hughes Wines and Lot 18 each have chosen diversions that suit the wines they offer. Ideal choices for the oenophile on your holiday gift list…

Popularity: 5% [?]

In November 1997, Michael and Jacky’s dream to open up an artisan chocolate company was realized.  Plans were solidified, licenses granted and Recchiuti Confections officially became a business.

I sat down with Michael and Jacky to talk about what the first days were like.

Michael and Jacky met in the late 1980’s and not long thereafter they began to discuss opening their own chocolate company.  Planning started while they were both working at Twins Farms, an intimate country getaway near Woodstock Vermont.  As they still do to this day, they divided and conquered:  Michael refined recipes and Jacky defined the aesthetic vision for the business.  Nearly thirty years ago, the US had little to offer in the way European-style truffles and confections so they drew lightly on European models for their market research.

Formaggio Kitchen a small specialty food boutique in Cambridge, Massachusetts, became Recchiuti’s first wholesale account.  It didn’t take long for the word to get out and Bon Appetit ran a feature in their magazine!

The time had come.  Michael and Jacky packed up their belongings and their drive to succeed, and moved to San Francisco.  Jacky said neither of them was intimidated by the prospect.  In fact, the potential and all the unknown possibilities were truly exciting.

Michael and Jacky moved into the  American Industrial Center where Recchiuti Confections’ kitchen and offices are still located today.  Back in 1997 they had one small room.  Today, Recchiuti’s production kitchen, fulfillment, packing, warehouse and corporate offices all occupy spaces of their own.

The first years were riddled with trial and error for the new business owners.  Michael recanted the story about the “gurgling and exploding” Ginger Hearts.  The cause of these truffle casualties was a mystery until lab tests revealed that there was an abnormally high level of yeast in the building due to a neighboring bakery that recently opened in the building.  The yeast was getting mixed up in the ganache which subsequently began to ferment.  A new filtration in the production kitchen resolved the challenge.

Fourteen years have passed and one cannot speak of fine chocolates and San Francisco without including Recchiuti Confections.  The two have become synonymous.  Happy Anniversary to Recchiuti Confections!

In the spirit of commemorating Recchiuti Confections’ anniversary, check out this video filmed by photographer/filmmaker Tom Seawell and starring Michael.  Originally, Michael made the video to honor his friend/extended family member Cajeton’s 70th birthday.  Cajeton lives in Australia and Michael and Jacky were unable to attend; instead, they sent their best wishes the Recchiuti-way.

Two traits Michael is known for, his kind heart and endearing sense of humor are apparent from the video’s start to its finish.  When asked, Michael said it fills him with good feelings to have been able to create this unique gift for his dear friend.

Popularity: 8% [?]

On Saturday September 17, 2011 the Ferry Building and CUESA (The Center for Urban Education about Sustainable Agriculture) teamed up for the First Annual Ferry Building Cookbook Festival.  Michael was there to share in the fun, sign his cookbook Chocolate Obsession and demonstrate how to make his Rocky Recchiuti Brownies.  After the cooking demo, Michael popped over to the store to sign additional books, promote his Rocky Recchiuti Brownies (special for the day!) and converse with customers.

Here is a photo gallery of the event.  (Photos taken by Recchiuti enthusiast Barry Jan.)

1) Prior to the event, in typical Michael fashion, he decided to test how close he could get to the speakers with his microphone.  When he was just inches away, ear-piercing feedback screeched throughout the crowd.  Of course, Michael thought it was hilarious and it set the tone for the sort of spontaneous demos he is known for.

2) Sarah Henkin, Market Chef and coordinator of CUESA’s culinary events, introducing Michael’s demo.

3) Michael proudly displays his Forastero Cacao Bean.

4) Chocolate, as we know and love it, is derived from the beans within the pods.

5) Mise en place. Always striving to support local produce and vendors, Michael used walnuts from Alfieri Farms.  Alfieri Farms is a family farm in Ripon, CA that is committed to providing the highest quality nuts and fruits.

6) After the melted chocolate, butter and eggs are mixed together, Michael adds the dry ingredients.

7) The moment everyone has been waiting for!  Note how the marshmallows are nice and toasty brown on top.  This is achieved by adding them to the batter after it is poured into the prepared pan.  This technique creates a great visual, aids in even distribution and decreases the possibility of overworking the batter.

Rocky Recchiuti Brownies have been a hit ever since Michael introduced them at the Farmer’s Market many years ago.  This is an easy recipe for beginner bakers.  Use your favorite nut!

8)  Endnote: This picture brought smiles to the faces of many Recchiuti employees.  Michael’s response: “no comment”.

Popularity: 39% [?]

One of the truly unique characteristics of Michael’s confections is his masterful use of herbs and spices.  Typically used for savory applications, Michael uses lavender, tarragon, and lemon verbena to formulate confections that are all his own.  These three herbs have become essential ingredients in three of Recchiuti Confections’ signature truffles.

Michael’s journey with herbs began in Philadelphia where he was first exposed to savory herbs and spices coupled with fruits (salted grapefruit; black pepper on cantaloupe), and in confections.  Michael described this as a “pivotal” moment in his professional development.

A few years later, and pre-Recchiuti Confections, Michael and Jacky worked at the exclusive country estate and spa Twin Farms.  Michael was the pastry chef and and Jacky, their Jane of all trades; it is no surprise that they stayed as long as they did.  Located in Barnard, VT, Twin Farms sits on three hundred plus acres of wildflower meadows, an ideal setting for Michael to cut his teeth on the exploration of herbs in pastry.  It was there that he would wander in the fields and harvest bundles of lemon verbena and lavender.  Michael “pushed himself to find something new” and incorporated the herbs into his sorbets and cakes.  His reason for it all: to discover appealing combinations.

Herbs and spices can be challenging ingredients and as Michael pointed out to me,“great things come from mistakes and disasters” and, of course, lots of trial and error.  There are many variables to consider: dry or fresh herbs, hot or cold infusions; the recipes should complement, not overwhelm, each truffle’s distinct flavor profile.  With the exception of Rose Geranium, Michael does not use flavored oils or essences.

When Michael and Jacky moved to San Francisco to open Recchiuti Confections, it made perfect sense to source local herbs to use in their truffles.  To this day, Michael procures lavender and lemon verbena from Eatwell Farm in Northern California’s Sacramento Valley.

Lavender’s prominent floral tones make it a suitable match for full bodied 70% chocolate.  Michael has determined that the species of lavender which meets his desired specifications is Lavandula augustifolia. For Recchiuti’s Lavender Vanilla Truffle, Eatwell cuts the plants ‘Grosso’ with the flowers still closed; this is preferred for drying.

Lemon Verbena’s strong citrus and floral aromas make it an ideal herb for perfumes, teas and of course, food.  For Recchiuti’s Lemon Verbena Truffle, the small, tender herb leaves are dried before they are steeped in warm cream. After that, the cream is allowed to cool and sit with the herbs for up to three days.  It is during this long, cold soak that the green, “chlorophyll” and herbaceous flavors are extracted.

Tarragon and grapefruit are two ingredients that, throughout the years, Michael has combined together in many recipes. The combination has found its way into cakes, an intermezzo sorbet and, of course, the revered Tarragon Grapefruit Truffle.  Tarragon’s licorice notes match perfectly with the tangy bite of grapefruit; when paired with dark chocolate a perfect harmony is achieved.  Recchiuti Confections buys tarragon from Mariquita Farm in Watsonville, CA.  Mariquita picks the tarragon to order which ensures the highest degree of freshness.

Recipes for all three of these truffles, and many more, can be found in Michael’s cookbook Chocolate Obsession.

Popularity: 48% [?]

Q: What was the purpose of your trip?

A: Primarily recipe and development.  We were seeking a new, proprietary formulation to be used as a dark chocolate ganache.  The end goal is to find a ratio that leads to a texture that is more “pudding-like” than the other Recchiuti blends and a “more stable emulsion” that does not separate.

[Valrhona, Recchiuti's primary supplier of chocolate, works with Michael to create blends that reflect his exacting preferences.  The process is meticulous and scientific.  Michael takes a sensory test using unlikely aromas like stone, soil, grass and metal. Once the data is captured, the proprietary Recchiuti blend is developed.  Additionally, the trip was an opportunity for Michael and Jacky to look for trends to inspire the upcoming Recchiuti café in Dogpatch.]

Q: Jacky, this was your first visit to the Rhone Valley (Tain L’Hermitage is the village Valrhona in) and to Valrhona.  What were your impressions?

A: It was reassuring to see that Valrhona, a company that is much larger than Recchiuti, uses manufacturing processes akin to ours (Recchiuti’s). There is no need for artificial flavorings and things of the like.

Valrhona has impeccable customer service.  They are always professional and warm.  Their etiquette is akin to the French version of “Southern Hospitality”.  The Rhone Valley is very rural and laid back; it is a tight family.

[This was Michael’s fourth trip to Valrhona and the visit was affirming for him as well.  It took Valrhona a total of six years to complete their panning room.  By choice, Valrhona uses a very old conching machine.   Not by choice, the machine has been known to break down and delay production.  They confront similar challenges that a small business (like Recchiuti) does.]

Q: What was (one of) your favorite meals?

A: Clarke’s in London.  The execution there was perfect and sublime.  The presentation was simple.  The asparagus was tender and perfect.  The experience was cozy, like one of our favorite San Franciscan restaurants, Delfina.  This meal was in contrast to the very formal, orchestrated, heavy and flavor-rich meals in Paris.  Wine was thoroughly enjoyed everywhere throughout the trip.

Q: What was the best smell during the trip?

A: (MR) The aroma of warm butter and yeast emerging from bakeries in the morning.  The drafts onto the streets almost seem deliberate (to lure in customers) and were familiar.

(JR) The clean, fresh smell of the Rhone Valley.

Q: Are there notable differences between the chocolate scenes in Paris, London and San Francisco?

A: Chocolate is a way of life in France.  Parisians seem to be more loyal to their chocolatiers and Americans seem to be more adventurous and shop for what is convenient.  Even in London, chocolate has more of a presence in London than it does San Francisco.

Q: Besides chocolate, what other food inspirations did you find?

A: (JR) At Dayslesford in London you could choose to have your soup either hot or cold; this was impressive.

(MR) The open air markets.  The vendors ask you when you will be eating your selection so they can give it to you at the appropriate ripeness.  Unpasteurized cheese was prevalent.

Q: What did you miss most about San Francisco?

A: The abundance of fresh vegetables greens and produce.

Q: Were there any noteworthy European fashion trends?

A: (JR) Surprisingly not.  It was disappointing to see that many clothing chains (Gap, Zara) have made fashion much more homogenized.  There were lots of Converse, Levis and baseball caps, more so than in previous visits.  Of course, people dress up more, as they do in NY.

Q: Did you come across any innovations in chocolate?

A: A marmite truffle made by Paul A. Young.

Answers are not direct quotes.

Popularity: 52% [?]

Each year Recchiuti Confections selects a Creativity Explored artist whose work will be featured on an exclusive box of our signature Burnt Caramel truffles for an entire year.  To commemorate the launch of our fifth Creativity Explored Box, on July 1^st, we held a celebration at the Ferry Building store.

This day, was particularly special, because we were also honoring the artist’s, Camille Holvoet’s Birthday.

The new Creativity Explored Box is entitled ‘Cakes’ and pictures four variations of Camille’s beloved  pastry.  Camille is an extremely talented artist who depictions of cakes bear resemblance to the American painter Wayne Thiebaud’s treasured works.

We thought a fitting kick off would be to invite our customers and friends down to the store to enjoy white cupcakes with truffle cream topping.  The scrumptious cupcakes were baked in our very own Recchiuti Kitchen and the recipe for them can be found in Michael’s book Chocolate Obsession.

Upon arriving at the event, Camille promptly asked to sample a box of the chocolates that depicted her art and a cupcake.  Michael sat at Camille’s side and throughout the hour they each graciously offered autographs to adoring fans.  Camille drew sketches for some 200 spectators and  looked at photographs in Michael’s cookbook.  In between laughs, Michael and Camille chatted about art and sweets.

Camille has a direct and contagious energy that draws you to her.  She also has a strong affinity for sweets of all kinds.  In one sketch she did that afternoon she wrote with a sharpie and big block letters: “I wish you could give me 200 boxes of candys.  I would like 200 boxes of candys in a big brown bag…Thank you Mikle.”  At one point, the crowd spontaneously sang Happy Birthday to Camille; a truly heartwarming moment for all.

For each ‘Cake’ Box that is sold, $2 goes directly to Creativity Explored so you can feel good about indulging in these Burnt Caramel truffles.  Jacky Recchiuti describes the continued partnership with Creativity Explored to be “fulfilling and inspirational”; we all look forward to sharing celebrations with our community to come.

Popularity: 59% [?]

Things that get me out of bed on a Saturday morning: Bagels and salty lox, my cat’s relentless whimper… the always sense-sating Farmers Market. On a recent Saturday, something else lured me awake.  I was off to a much anticipated tasting of Recchiuti Chocolate paired with JC Cellars wines.  Chocolate and wine were to be breakfast, an unusual but delightful start to the day.

JC Cellars is in Lake Merrit, CA.  I liken Lake Merrit to the Dogpatch of the East Bay.  (The latter of which is home to Recchiuti.)  Lake Merritt is a few blocks from Oakland’s inner harbor and a few more from Oakland’s Chinatown.  In recent years this neighborhood has undergone a fair amount of development which has centered around the rebirth of Jack London Square and the demise of many chain restaurants that moved in during the 1970s.

This was only my second encounter with JC Cellars.  The first was a few weeks prior when Jeff Cohen (the JC in JC Cellars) came to the office with a few dozen bottles of wine.  Michael & Jeff disappeared into the conference room and painstakingly tested out numerous pairings.  Several hours later they emerged flushed and gleeful.  The menu for the upcoming event had been determined.

Upon entering the 15,000 sq. ft. warehouse of a wine cellar, I noticed the tables were set with many, many stems and no spittoons. Seven flights & no spitting would be a guaranteed way to loosen up the attendees and get them talking.

The tasting began with brief introductions by our hosts Michael & Jeff.

Michael is a self-made chocolatier.  He’s been conjuring sweets since his boyhood days in Philadelphia where he used to bake Italian wedding cakes with his grandmother.  As a young man, he was a pastry chef at the renowned restaurant Le Bec Fin.  Michael trained for three years under Alain Tricou; during this time that he developed his passion for chocolate as well as refined his palate and style.  Michael’s preference for the bold and innovative lead him San Francisco and to create Recchiuti Confections.

Jeff is the winemaker and president of JC Cellars.  Twenty years ago he cut his teeth in the industry as an intern at Boordy Vineyards in Maryland.  His credentials include an associate degree in culinary arts, a bachelor’s degree in hospitality and a master’s degree in agriculture chemistry, with an emphasis on enology.  After working for many years at Rosenblum Cellars, Jeff began his own label in 1996. Jeff travels throughout California in search of the finest fruit and the best vineyards.  His goal: to marry California fruit to the aspects of terroir and minerality that you would find in France’s oldest winemaking regions.

Wine excites Jeff as chocolate excites Michael.  There is an element of pleasure and enjoyment that drives them both.  Chocolate and wine need not be saved for special occasions they are small ways to treat yourself. The rapport between Michael and Jeff is jovial with a hint of friendly mocking.  As the touchés pass back and forth, the tasting begins.  There will be seven flights of wine, each paired with 2 or so pieces of chocolate.

Chocolate is no different than other foods that you pair with wine in so much that you want to match lighter-flavored chocolates with lighter-bodied wines, and more intensely flavored chocolates with more full-bodied wines.  You can either pair flavors that have similar notes or those that contrast.  By their nature, pairings will always be subjective.

Follows is a list of each of the flights, notes on the wine (with the help of JCCellars.com) and a brief description of the experience that emerged when paired with the chocolate.

Experience #1: 2008 Stagecoach Vineyard Marsanne with Honeycomb Malt and Butterscotch Caramel.  Stagecoach is aged 16 months in 30% new French oak and 70% one-year-old barrels.  Aroma: orange blossom, lemon custard, bitter almond, cinnamon and slightly sautéed vanilla bean in butter and glazed in heavy cream.  Tasting notes: Honeysuckle, acacia flowers and marzipan.  The mineral element of the wine gives way to a touch of dried apricot and peach.  The sweet malt infused white chocolate ganache of the Honeycomb Malt seems to diffuse the tannins of the wine. For many of the participants the Butterscotch Caramel has more affinity with the wine.  The salt in this confection highlights the mineral notes of the wine.

Experience #2: 2008 Imposter Red Wine with Spring Jasmine Tea and Cassis Strata.  Imposter is abundant with dark fruits and aromatics of spiced plum, wild game, graphite and dried currant. It gains depth and traction on the finish with complex minerality and chewy tannins.  The milk chocolate in the Spring Jasmine Tea off sets the acidity of the wine.  Furthermore, it pulls out a woodsy flavor in the wine.  The flavor of the Cassis Strata Truffle was a dead ringer for the fruit flavors in the wine.

Next up, we would do a lateral tasting of Stage Coach Syrah with the same two truffles to see how the vintage of a wine would alter the experience with the chocolate.

In both vintages, the extreme terroir of the Stagecoach Syrahs produces a wine of many extremes and intensities. Aromas of: graphite, mineral, roasted earth, blackberry preserves and floral components. Tasting notes: well-structured black fruits a mineral backbone, crème brûlée finish.

Experience #3: 2006 Stagecoach Syrah with Cardamom Nougat and Piedmont Hazelnut. Michael explains that the Cardamom Nougat Truffle was impart inspired by a tradition in Denmark to use cardamom in their pastries.  The ”nougat” in this truffle is actually a cacao nib crumble.  The cardamom nougat’s spice notes make it an almost a savory chocolate and its toasty tannins amplified the spiciness of the wine.

Experience #4: 2007 Stagecoach Vineyard ‘Isabel’ Syrah with Cardamom Nougat and Piedmont Hazelnut.  Blackberry preserves, spiced plum and graphite minerality.  This vintage is riper than the 2006.  The gianduja (milk chocolate and hazelnut paste) filling of the Piedmont Hazelnut Truffle causes this heavy wine to be even darker and richer.

Experience #5: ‘Buffalo Hill’ Rockpile Vineyard Syrah 2007 with Ginger Heart Truffle & Rose Geranium Caramel.

This wine has very low yields (63 cases).  On the pallet it offers a true French, specifically Hermitage, experience, a balance between soft finesse and minerality.  Cohn considers this wine to be the culmination of all wines that inspire the JC Cellars team.  With an espresso aroma, this wine is cassis driven, with sparks of mineral and wild cherry.  It’s rounded out with vanilla bean, brown sugar and cinnamon.

When experienced with the Ginger Heart the long finish is emphasized.  It is like a “big hug”.  This wine will only get better with time.  The Rose Geranium Truffle and Rockpile are pure seduction.  I was intrigues to learn that Hermitage is an appellation from the Rhône Valley of France, the same origin of Valrhona and the chocolates Michael uses to make his confections.

Experience #6: Misc. Stuff 2008 (44% Carignan, 25% Grenache, 24% Syrah, 7% Tempranillo) with Equador Varietal and Amarena Candied Cherry

This wine is JC Cellar’s first attempt at playing around with a Carignan blend. This wine has a delightful Spanish flair; a dance between Priorat and Cornas. Each of the components of this wine was aged in large formats with only 10% new oak involved. Cohn says his “goal was to have slow maturation and focus on the fruit and vineyards that were blended together.”  This wine is a mixture of grapes from warm and cool climates.  With so many interesting components, the name Misc. Stuff, just seemed to fit. This wine is exotic, decadent and truly rustic in its nature.

The straightforward intensity of the Ecuadorian varietal cocoa bean exhibits a persistence of flavor. Smokey tobacco notes, a hint of earthiness and a rich, coffee color.  The flavors in the truffle dance with the subtle but present earth components of the wine.

The candied and wild Italian Cherries are part of Recchiuti’s Dragee line.  It is drenched in dark chocolate and then dusted in cocoa powder.  Michael procures the wild candied cherry from a nearly hundred year old company in Italy that specializes in this unique and prized fruit.  The candied Amarena cherry matches with the bight black cherry aroma and flavor of the Misc. Stuff.

Experience #7 2005 Ripken Late Harvest Viognier (8% alc. 16.5% residual sugar) with Pear Lime Pate de Fruit and Kona Coffee Truffle

Viognier was selected to conclude the tasting.  It is a perfect dessert wine, typically from the Rhône Valley. This lush Viognier was harvested with a hint of noble rot that engenders tropical flavors: apricot, peach, nectar, beeswax and honey.

The Pear-Lime Pâte de Fruit is a wonderful compliment to the Viongnier; it is a welcome pallet refresher after so many flights of chocolate.  Again, and of interest, the fuits used to make the gelées are also from the Rhône Valley.

Rounding out the tasting is the Kona Coffee Truffle.  The 100% Kona that is infused into the semisweet chocolate has low acidity and strong berry components.  The truffles provides and intriguing contrast to the Viognier and is a wonderful finale to the tasting.

If you would like to host your own Chocolate and Wine Tasting party the Recchiuti Confection Red Wine Pairing Collection is a great place to start The box contains chocolates selected by Michael Recchiuti to pair with suggested red wines. It includes three pieces each of Star Anise & Pink Peppercorn, Spring Jasmine Tea, Force Noir and pairing notes. Try Michael’s wine suggestions or pair with a wine of your choice.  
Salud!

Popularity: 78% [?]

Here’s a visual recap of  Eat The Paint 2011.  Conducted by Michael and artist Mark Alsterlind; this is one of our favorite yearly events!  Photo Credit: Katreece Montgomery

Popularity: 77% [?]

The setting: The industrial, rust meets revolution Dogpatch district of San Francisco.  Spanning an entire city block, the building bustles with bohemian innovation. Creative business thrives here. The 2^nd floor is dusted with the dreamy, intoxicating aroma of sweets in the making.  This is where the magic happens.

A Brian Eno iPhone App titled ‘Bloom’ generates chocolate spa music, not dissimilar to a planetarium playlist.  The tones mingle with soft voices of curious, awaiting guests.  Pastoral scenes from Toluma Farms are projected on the wall.  Butcher-paper lined tables and flickering votives.

I will be the first to admit that I was slightly skeptical of how this pairing would work.  I adore chocolate and can never have enough cheese.  But together?

The menu combines the forces of Michael Recchiuti, Laura Werlin & William Werner; all experts in their respective fields.  During his introduction, Michael made a distinction between pairing chocolate and cheese and using the two to accentuate their own unique and nuanced flavors.  He said that he didn’t want to mask the experience of the cheese on its own.

Laura has devoted her career to the exploration of American Cheese.  She can be credited with educating the public about the diverse and wonderful cheeses produced across our country.  She explained that for this Taste Project,  the selection of cheese was all American in origin and of primarily artisan production.  Furthermore, the US has become a leader in the cheese industry & has inspired innovations in what was a stagnant European market.  As the menu would reveal, cheese making is not exclusive to any one part of the US. It is everywhere.  Much like wine, a cheese’s unique flavor is in part a result of its terroir.

Course 1: Grilled Cheese

One of the pleasures of these events is that food becomes a medium for dialogue.  The audience was fascinated by every detail of each course.  In this case, the conversation turned to the brioche, a tender bread enriched with butter and eggs.  Michael’s recipe for brioche, one he has used for many years, was 43% butter.  In unison, the room sighed with approval.  The perfectly toasted brioche rounds sandwich two types of pasteurized cow’s milk cheese: Wagon Wheel and Foggy Morning.  Aged Wagon Wheel is an excellent cheese for melting.  Foggy Morning is a young cheese made in nearby Nicasio, CA; its tangy flavor is similar to that of fromage blanc.  Beneath the cheese lay a wilted tomato that had rested for over half a day in one of the warm chocolate rooms.  In place of mayonnaise, a Valrhona chocolate caramel spread.

The tomato push pop added more than whimsy.  Its refreshing, cool, just picked summer taste played on the contrasting temperatures and textures of the sando.  It was my favorite component of the dish.  I imagined a Bloody Mary, or BLT version.  This is that type of cuisine.

Course 2: Cheese & Chestnut Soufflé

Soufflé is one of those classic French dishes that consistently incites intimidation among novice chefs.  But, in fact, it is a rather simple method to follow and is made from a few staple ingredients.  This soufflé can be made in advance of service, which makes it suitable for entertaining.

The cheese in the soufflé is a fresh goat’s cheese called O Banon, which hails from a farm in ‘Kentuchiana’ on the border Kentucky and Indiana.  The cheese is wrapped like a present in chestnut leaves that have been soaked in Bourbon.  The liquor’s musky flavor only slightly penetrates the mild cheese and also serves as a natural preservative.  The cheese is drained and molded resulting in a crumbly dry paste.

The soufflé was postured like a velvet royal crown. Poofy & aloof.  Paper thin chestnut slices adorned her & she lay a top a brown butter and apple cider vinegar reduction.  Amber colored and slightly syrupy.  The knobby chestnuts were passed through a truffle shaver and thus gave the illusion there of.  The soufflé was draped in cocoa nibs (roasted cocoa beans separated from their husks & broken into small pieces) which gave texture and a subtle roasted flavor.

Course 3: Autumn Salad

I would add ‘Deconstructed’ to the title.  There were no greens or veggies as the name suggests.  This dish was a perfect marriage of fruit and cheese; in this case pears and cheddar.  Silky pear coulis dots the plate.  There are free form white chocolate twigs topped with crunchy nutty beads of praline.  Cabot cloth bound cheddar, robust and sharp, was the perfect savory partner.

Expressions around the room confirm delighted taste buds.  I remind myself of the behind the scenes brilliance that fuels these events.  Let’s talk about Chef William Werner.  Evoking a countenance of Justin Bierber, William seamlessly conducted the kitchen.  Everything on the plate is thoughtful.  He uses, what looks to be a hairdryer, to heat & soften pre-made tuilles in a leaf-shaped mold.  Then, he places curves and ripples in each by hand.  The delicate leaves were used to garnish the salad.

Werner operates his business Tell Tale Preserve Company from the same building that Recchiuti Confection is located in.  Tell Tale Society, a patisserie & delicatessen, is slated to open at 33 Maiden Lane sometime soon.  The society will deliver monthly burlap bags brimming with creatively inspired (sweet & savory) preserves, confections, cookies, cakes and the like.

Course 4: Toasted Barley Chocolate Truffle

From here, the tasting was moved to the kitchen.  The room, really a chocolate laboratory, is filled with culinary equipment and tools of all sorts.  It’s here, that RC melts, enrobes, covers, bakes, and creates all the confections.

Make it known that Michael loves fire.  A self-proclaimed ‘pyro.’ His passion for flame, flame for passion, translates gorgeously into RC’s signature ‘Burnt Caramel.’  Carmel is the result of heating sugar beyond its melting point so that it becomes a liquid.

It can be the platform for many additions.  In this case, cocoa nibs and toasted barley were added.

The now crunchy caramel concoction was spread out on a Silpat to cool and we proceed to build the rest of the truffle.  A cheese named Fenacho is to be the base.  It’s a semi-hard goat’s milk cheese and mimics aged Gouda.  It’s sweet and butterscotchy.  Fenugreek is mixed into the cheese and gives it a hint of celery.  This is my favorite cheese of the day.  A layer of ginger pâte de fruits coats the cheese and is sprinkled with barley. Finally, it’s run through the Willy Wonkaesque enrober, then passes through a slow & steady cooling tunnel where it sets.  Pure imagination.

Eating a truffle fresh off an enrober should be on everyone’s bucket list.  And, what makes this even better is that the unexpected flavors really do work together.

Course 5: Bayley Hazen Blue Chocolate Truffle

Michael’s shock & awe campaign of the day.  Although this truffle did not suit my personal taste, it was a honorable and fun experiment.  The cheese was Bayley Hazen Blue made of raw cow’s milk in Greensboro Vermont: a heady, creamy blue that I likened to stilton.  Complex and bold; this cheese is not for the faint at heart.  I would pair this beastly blue with a cold autumn night & an aperitivo with viscous legs.

Course 6: Grason meets Recchiuti

So much of our sense of taste comes from smell & this cheese was, to put it mildly, aromatic, prodigious, fragrant…stinky.  Pastoral smells, hoofs, and a ripeness that can literally knock you over.  Grayson is a washed rind cheese paying dues to a classic tellegio.  This cheese has layers of flavor and deserves to be tasted alone.  Sweet, pungent, buttery.  This course was paired with fresh figs, in season now, dark chocolate beads and one last show stopper, house made panforte.

So in the end, I was (happily) proved wrong.  Chocolate & cheese can mingle and delightfully so.

Popularity: 99% [?]